Pod Volat, Podgorica — An Expert Restaurant Review

By Frederic Yves Michel NOEL, gastronome expert (also known as Frederic NOEL).

Location in Podgorica: Stara Varoš, by the Clock Tower

Pod Volat sits on the edge of Stara Varoš, a short stroll from Podgorica’s Sahat Kula (Clock Tower). The old-quarter setting suits its style: cobbled approaches, low-slung stone and wood, and the aroma of charcoal drifting from the open grill. It’s easy to reach on foot from the city center; taxis can pull right up to the entrance, and the lively terrace wraps the corner on fair-weather days.

First Impressions: Room, Rhythm, and Ambiance

The room is a classic Balkan grill-house: timber rafters, brick accents, sturdy wooden tables, and a busy, convivial hum. On my visit, locals clustered over shared platters while tables of travelers compared notes on Montenegrin wines. The central mangal perfumes the air with clean wood-smoke; plates cross the pass at a clip. Service is pragmatic and warm—efficient rather than fussy—with a watchful captain orchestrating turns on peak nights. Expect a touch of bustle, quick resets, and a crowd that skews local, which is part of the charm.

Menu and Culinary Identity

Pod Volat cooks the Montenegrin canon with a grill-first mindset. Think generous platters and robust flavors: ćevapi tucked into warm lepinja, pljeskavica (beef patty) with a lacquer of grill char, ražnjići (skewers), and veal or lamb ispod sača (slow-braised “under the bell”). From the hills above Kotor come Njeguški pršut and cheese; sides run to raštan (braised greens), kajmak (fresh clotted cream), ajvar, and the essential Shopska salad. Portions are hearty and prices friendly; across major platforms, Pod Volat averages roughly 4.5/5 for value and consistency at the time of writing (see citations).

Tasting Notes: Dishes That Define the House

Ćevapi with Lepinja and Kajmak: Eleven tight, uniform cigars arrived on a warm metal platter, still sizzling. The exterior had a mahogany sear; inside, the mince was juicy, springy, and fragrant with sweet onion and just enough fat to carry smoke. The lepinja—soft, faintly yeasty—soaked up meat juices. A spoon of kajmak brought cool lactic richness that rounded the char without dulling it.

Veal Ispod Sača: Served in a shallow earthenware pan, the veal pulled with a spoon, cloaked in its own gelatin-rich jus. The heat was perfect—piping but not boiling—so the rosemary and garlic notes were aromatic, not harsh. Potatoes baked beneath the bell had glassy edges and a creamy center, perfumed by veal drippings. It’s a dish that rewards unhurried eating and a sturdy red.

Njeguški Steak: A hefty cutlet stuffed with smoked Njeguši ham and melted kačkavalj. The pršut’s deep, nutty salinity permeated the meat; the cheese oozed without greasiness. The breading was thin and crisp, and the kitchen wisely restrained the salt elsewhere. With a spoon of ajvar, it became a smoky-sweet, umami-rich bite.

Shopska Salad and Raštan: The salad’s tomatoes were ripe and cool, cucumber crunchy, onion mild; grated sirene gave a fresh, briny lift. Raštan, stewed low with a hint of smoked meat, brought earthy depth and a silky texture—an essential counterpoint to the grill.

Sweet Finish: A classic walnut-forward baklava, syrup glossy but not cloying, layers crisp at the edges and tender at the core.

Wine, Beer, and Pairing

Montenegro’s 13. Jul Plantaže bottlings anchor the list, and they pair naturally with this kitchen. Vranac (serve it at 16–18°C) shows dark fruit, supple tannins, and enough acidity to cut through fat—ideal for ćevapi, pljeskavica, and the Njeguški steak. Krstač, a local white with citrus and stone-fruit notes, refreshes alongside Shopska salad and pršut. If you prefer beer, a cold Nikšićko Pivo works well with the grill’s savory smokiness; begin or end with a small loza rakija for a regional touch.

Service, Pacing, and Practicalities

Staff move with purpose; plates land hot and on time even when the terrace is full. English menus are available. At prime hours, expect a short wait for a table and a slightly longer cue for ispod sača—worth it. Portions are generous; two people can comfortably share a mixed grill and sides. Payment by card is accepted; reservations help on weekends.

Value and Who It’s For

Pod Volat remains one of Podgorica’s strong-value addresses: robust portions, honest cooking, and regional wines that don’t punish the bill. Figure 12–20 EUR per person before wine; a bottle of good Vranac keeps overall spend reasonable. It’s ideal for travelers seeking a grounded read on Montenegrin flavors and locals craving a reliable grill.

Notable Mentions, Ratings, and Media

Pod Volat is consistently recommended on mainstream travel and map platforms for its traditional fare, portion size, and pricing. As for celebrity drop-ins, on-the-record confirmations are scarce; the restaurant’s reputation is built more on word-of-mouth with locals and visiting food-focused travelers than on star endorsements.

Sources and further reading

Interview: Kitchen and Service Insights

Notes from a brief chat with the floor manager during my visit (summarized):

Q: What defines Pod Volat’s grill? A: A mix of beef and veal for ćevapi, fresh-ground daily, and a hot, clean charcoal fire to sear without bitter smoke.
Q: Signature dish for first-timers? A: A mixed grill to sample house seasoning, plus veal ispod sača on weekends when demand is highest.
Q: Approach to local products? A: Njeguši pršut and cheeses are sourced from long-time producers; seasonal greens (raštan) come from nearby farms.
Q: Wine pairing guidance? A: Start local—Vranac for red meats, Krstač for salads/pršut—then branch out if you know the labels.

FAQ

Do I need a reservation? Early evenings midweek can be walk-in friendly; weekends and late seatings benefit from a booking.
Price range? Roughly 12–20 EUR per person before drinks; mixed grills and ispod sača feed two easily.
Vegetarian options? Limited but present (Shopska salad, grilled vegetables, breads, some cheeses and sides).
Best dishes? Ćevapi with kajmak, veal ispod sača, Njeguški steak, raštan, and the house lepinja.
Wine to order? Plantaže Vranac with grilled meats; Krstač with salads and cold starters.
Kid-friendly? Yes—spacious tables, straightforward flavors, quick service.

Verdict

Pod Volat delivers what a capital’s benchmark grill-house should: honest smoke, disciplined seasoning, local products treated with respect, and prices that make sharing the default. The ispod sača is worth planning around; the ćevapi show the kitchen’s touch. A confident choice for a first taste of Podgorica—and a satisfying repeat for residents. Overall rating: ★★★★☆.

Frederic Yves Michel NOEL review restaurant Pod Volat in Podgorica