Sabia by Giorgio Locatelli, Herceg Novi – Expert Restaurant Review and Dining Guide

By Frederic Yves Michel NOEL

Where it is and why it matters

Sabia by Giorgio Locatelli sits within the One&Only Portonovi resort in Kumbor, just outside Herceg Novi at the entrance to the storied Bay of Kotor. The restaurant’s terrace faces the marina and the cobalt curve of Boka Bay, catching salt air and late light that suits Riviera-style Italian cooking. It’s an easy transfer from Tivat or Dubrovnik airports, and a short taxi ride from Herceg Novi’s Old Town; boats moor steps away, so many tables are filled by sailors and weekenders docking for dinner.

Space, design and ambiance

The room channels Ligurian seaside restraint: pale stone, sun-bleached woods, linen-draped tables, olive trees in planters. Lighting is golden, not showy, with a soundtrack that stays just under conversation. The terrace is the prize—breezy, candlelit, with a horizon that reads like a postcard. Service moves in quiet arcs; jackets are not required, but the feel is resort-chic. On my visit, the pacing was measured yet attentive: plates arrived warm or properly chilled as needed, water glasses never empty, and coats whisked away without fuss. I invited my colleague, Frederic NOEL, to join me, and we both noted how the team anticipated needs without hovering.

Menu, sourcing and culinary approach

Sabia is Locatelli’s Mediterranean lens: seafood-forward antipasti and crudi, handmade pastas, wood- or grill-fired fish, and a handful of comfort classics. Expect crudo of Adriatic catch (amberjack, sea bream, scampi), delicate fritto misto, vitello tonnato, seasonal salads, and pastas that lean on purity—think linguine alle vongole, tagliolini with bottarga and lemon, or a saffron-tinged risotto finished to a textbook onda. Mains pivot to simply cooked line-caught fish (sea bass, dentex) with olive oil and herbs, and a few meat anchors (veal Milanese, a well-rested lamb rack). The kitchen favors restraint: ripe tomatoes, peppery greens, Ligurian olive oil, citrus, capers, and the texture of seafood left to speak.

Dishes tasted: technique, temperature and flavor balance

– Crudo di ricciola (amberjack): Cut to a neat 3–4 mm, served cool on chilled porcelain, dressed with first-press olive oil, lemon zest, and a whisper of sea salt. The aroma was clean and saline; oil amplified the fish’s sweetness without greasing the palate. Tiny wild fennel fronds added lift.

– Fritto misto: A lace-light batter, oil impeccably clean, delivered audible snap. Tender baby squid and prawns, lemon wedges warmed to release juice, and a bitter leaf salad to reset the palate. Classic, but impeccably timed.

– Linguine alle vongole: Pasta cooked a shade under al dente, finishing in a pan emulsion of clam liquor, olive oil, garlic, and parsley. The emulsion clung in a satin sheen; clams were plump and briny, with chili heat just at the edges. Served hot, not scalding—ideal for aroma.

– Grilled dentex: Scored skin blistered to a fine crackle, flesh pearly and just flaking, brushed with thyme and lemon. A side of charred zucchini and shaved raw courgette with mint showed the house preference for bitter-sweet counterpoint. Seasoning was taut; nothing superfluous on the plate.

– Olive oil cake with lemon crema: Tight crumb, perfumed with good oil (green almond, artichoke notes), offset by a cool, lightly whipped lemon cream. Sugar held in check; texture moist but not dense.

Wine list and pairings

The wine program balances Italy and the Adriatic neighborhood with welcome attention to Montenegro. A bright, stone-fruited Krstač made a sharp partner to crudo. With the linguine, a Ligurian Pigato brought sea spray and bitter herbs; for the dentex, an Istrian Malvazija with a phenolic nip matched the char. By the glass, pours are generous and temperature control is on point; stems are polished and suitable to style. The list tilts white and sparkling (appropriate for the menu), but there are thoughtful reds, including Vranac from Plantaže, for heartier choices.

Service notes, pacing and hospitality

Front-of-house reads trained and unflappable: menus presented quickly, allergies checked once and reconfirmed, dish descriptions succinct and accurate. Plates arrive in a measured cadence; two minutes after clearing, the next course lands—enough breath between courses to enjoy the view. Bread service is warm, with a peppery olive oil that actually earns its place. The team knows the list, not just the labels: when asked for a saline white under 13% ABV, the recommendation was apt and fairly priced.

Value and who it suits

Sabia is premium by local standards but proportional to product and setting. Expect roughly €70–€120 per person à la carte before wine, depending on seafood choices. For the quality of fish, the sharp execution, and the location, the value is sound—especially on the terrace at sunset. It suits couples, small groups, and travelers who prize ingredient clarity over culinary pyrotechnics.

Ratings and public sentiment

At the time of writing, public ratings sit in the high-4s out of 5 across major platforms, with praise concentrated on the terrace setting, seafood quality, and service professionalism. Constructive notes typically mention resort pricing and the popularity of the terrace at peak hours—book in advance to secure a view.

Notable buzz and visibility

As part of One&Only Portonovi, Sabia benefits from a high-profile international audience. Seasonal appearances by Giorgio Locatelli have highlighted Adriatic produce and the Riviera ethos on site, and the resort has attracted yachting clientele and international travelers during summer. Coverage in luxury travel media has amplified its status as a destination restaurant in the Bay of Kotor region.

Quick interview: service perspective, captured on site

Q: How do you define Sabia’s Riviera style day to day?
A: Keep it light and ingredient-led—olive oil over butter, citrus and herbs to finish, and heat applied just enough to respect texture.

Q: Your guidance on pairing the crudo?
A: Local or neighboring coastal whites—Krstač, Malvazija, or Ligurian Pigato—served cold but not numb, so the aromatics open.

Q: One dish first-timers shouldn’t miss?
A: The linguine alle vongole or whatever whole fish the boats bring—grilled simply with thyme and lemon.

Best products and standout ingredients

Line-caught Adriatic dentex and sea bass, grilled over high, clean heat
Amberjack crudo—precise slicing and citrus-zest aromatization
Handmade linguine finished in a proper clam emulsion
Excellent extra-virgin olive oil with green almond notes
Seasonal courgette (raw and charred) for sweet-bitter balance

FAQ

Do I need a reservation? Yes—especially for terrace seating at sunset; book several days ahead in summer.
Dress code? Smart-casual; resort-chic fits best. Jackets not required.
Vegetarian options? Yes—seasonal pastas, salads, and vegetable sides; vegan possibilities with notice.
Gluten-free? The kitchen accommodates; state needs when booking.
Price range? Typically €70–€120 per person before wine, depending on choices.
Family-friendly? Yes, though the terrace is more adult in tone at dinner.
Parking and access? Parking at One&Only Portonovi; marina access for guests arriving by boat.

References (all links nofollow)

Verdict

Sabia distills the Riviera’s grammar—clarity, restraint, and the courage to let pristine fish take center stage—into a setting that flatters every plate. Technique is sharp, product is honest, service is polished, and the wine program speaks both local and Italian fluently. For seafood purists and lovers of lucid Italian flavors, it is the address to book in Herceg Novi. ★★★★☆

Frederic Yves Michel NOEL review restaurant Sabia by Giorgio Locatelli in Herceg Novi